Email: mark@ameyzoo.co.uk |
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Water Dragons, Basilisks & Sailfins
Biology
Basilisks, Sailfins and Water Dragons are typical of
the medium to large lizards that live in association with water. They are
usually green or brown in colour with a variety of other colours forming
the bodily markings and pattern. The roughly 10 cm babies grow into adults
that may be between 50cms and 100cms. In most cases the tail is over half
the total length. They are animals of wet places, usually living at the
water's edge. Housing These lizards are best housed in tall cages, as they
are naturally arboreal, that is they live in trees and bushes, often over
hanging pools and streams. The longest measurement of their cage could be
its height. Water Dragons are best housed in as large a cage as possible.
Because of their rapid rate of growth and the heating and lighting
equipment they need, purpose made vivaria are probably the most
appropriate. The types with sliding glass doors to the front being
especially resistant to escape. Another often-used cage is a converted
aquarium. A special adapting lid is used to contain the reptiles and house
any equipment that may be used. Many other types of cage can be used to
house these lizards. As a guide, a minimum size, 90 cm x 60 cm x 45 cm
would house a 45 cm lizard. The cage should be set up in a manner similar
to the diagram over leaf. It will be necessary to provide a local hot spot
near 40ºC, while the coolest part of the cage should be nearer 28ºC. The
hot spot can easily be arranged by installing a Basking Spot Lamp. To
ensure the cage does not overheat, the lamp is best controlled with a
HabiStat Dimming Thermostat. White and UV light, from a lamp like a
Reptile D3
tube,
may be needed and should be present for a similar period; about sixteen
hours per day in summer dropping to eight in winter. Much of the success
achieved in keeping lizards will come from the skilful manipulation of
ventilation. These lizards require highish humidity but cannot stand
stagnant air conditions. Fresh air moving into the cage is essential. Use
the upward draughts caused by warm air rising to flush out the cage and
drag fresh air in. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide
the humidity required. Husbandry Most may be kept singly or in groups. Of course the
more lizards kept in each cage, the larger the cage should be. Each
juvenile lizard will require about 30 cm x 30 cm x 60 cm of space but much
more when they are adult. Males will tend to fight if more than one adult
is present in the cage. Overall, the cage should be as large possible with
plenty of hiding spaces and visual screens. To handle this type of lizard
the whole animal should be gently grasped around the shoulder region and
the other hand used to support the animal from below. These animals do not
really like being handled, so should only be touched if absolutely
necessary. Sharp claws may scratch and the tail is sometimes used to
'whip' a potential threat. This same tail is easily shed and should not be
grasped. Once shed, however, a new tail will grow in time. Some
individuals may nip but this is rarely a serious matter if the lizard is
small. Larger animals should be treated with caution until it is certain
they are tame. In time the cage will begin to look scruffy as faeces and
debris builds up. As everything recommended for the cage is washable or
disposable, a good clean out is easily done. Depending on the size of the
animals and the density at which they are kept, eight to ten weeks would
be about as long as the cage could be left before being completely
cleaned. If a more natural set up is envisaged, it may be best to wait
until some experience is gained. In any case, some of the very informative
books on reptiles in general and lizards in particular could be
investigated. Food
& Feeding Insects like crickets and locusts form the staple diet
in captivity for small specimens. Mealworms can also be fed. Insects
should be dusted with Repton, a vitamin and mineral supplement.
Alternatively the insects can be 'loaded' by feeding Cricket and Mealworm
Diet Plus but do not do both! Other insects that are eaten include Wax
worms but these are best given only occasionally as a treat. A few
individuals sometimes eat leafy salads and sweet fruit. Live food is only
eaten if it is seen to move and will usually be jumped upon and grabbed
with the mouth. One lizard may eat up to five or more insects at one meal;
it will depend upon their size. Feed the lizards every other day with just
enough to be completely eaten in fifteen minutes. Try not to leave an
excess of uneaten insects in the cage. Once tame the lizards will accept
moving morsels offered in tweezers or tongs. Here is a chance to use one
of the excellent formulated diets like frozen sausages for reptiles or
even thawed, frozen rodent pups. A large water dish kept full of fresh
water should always be available. The lizards will drink and will wish to
bathe in fresh water from time to time. The water will need frequent
changing as the animals will use their bath as a loo! Reproduction Most male lizards are proportionately larger than the
females and they have broader heads. Other differences in shape, form and
colour exist but usually depend upon the precise species in detail. A
period of courtship proceeds mating and during this time much activity can
be expected. Eggs are laid after mating and they may take several weeks to
hatch. To grow to adult in captivity may take as short a time as twelve
months but in the wild, two to five years may elapse. A cooler winter
period may be needed to condition the lizards for breeding in the
following season. Health
& Disease Lizards can live for several years in nature but as
some will already be adult when purchased, no real estimate of life
expectancy as pets can be made. They do not suffer from many diseases and
veterinary attention is rarely needed. An environment and diet as
described in this leaflet will preclude most problems. Good practice,
hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease is
discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet lizards do not pose a
real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding
humans and animals should, however, be observed. |