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Internationional Sugar Glider Association

Water Dragons, Basilisks & Sailfins

 

Biology

Basilisks, Sailfins and Water Dragons are typical of the medium to large lizards that live in association with water. They are usually green or brown in colour with a variety of other colours forming the bodily markings and pattern. The roughly 10 cm babies grow into adults that may be between 50cms and 100cms. In most cases the tail is over half the total length. They are animals of wet places, usually living at the water's edge.

Housing

These lizards are best housed in tall cages, as they are naturally arboreal, that is they live in trees and bushes, often over hanging pools and streams. The longest measurement of their cage could be its height. Water Dragons are best housed in as large a cage as possible. Because of their rapid rate of growth and the heating and lighting equipment they need, purpose made vivaria are probably the most appropriate. The types with sliding glass doors to the front being especially resistant to escape. Another often-used cage is a converted aquarium. A special adapting lid is used to contain the reptiles and house any equipment that may be used. Many other types of cage can be used to house these lizards. As a guide, a minimum size, 90 cm x 60 cm x 45 cm would house a 45 cm lizard. The cage should be set up in a manner similar to the diagram over leaf. It will be necessary to provide a local hot spot near 40ºC, while the coolest part of the cage should be nearer 28ºC. The hot spot can easily be arranged by installing a Basking Spot Lamp. To ensure the cage does not overheat, the lamp is best controlled with a HabiStat Dimming Thermostat. White and UV light, from a lamp like a Reptile D3 tube, may be needed and should be present for a similar period; about sixteen hours per day in summer dropping to eight in winter. Much of the success achieved in keeping lizards will come from the skilful manipulation of ventilation. These lizards require highish humidity but cannot stand stagnant air conditions. Fresh air moving into the cage is essential. Use the upward draughts caused by warm air rising to flush out the cage and drag fresh air in. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide the humidity required.

Husbandry

Most may be kept singly or in groups. Of course the more lizards kept in each cage, the larger the cage should be. Each juvenile lizard will require about 30 cm x 30 cm x 60 cm of space but much more when they are adult. Males will tend to fight if more than one adult is present in the cage. Overall, the cage should be as large possible with plenty of hiding spaces and visual screens. To handle this type of lizard the whole animal should be gently grasped around the shoulder region and the other hand used to support the animal from below. These animals do not really like being handled, so should only be touched if absolutely necessary. Sharp claws may scratch and the tail is sometimes used to 'whip' a potential threat. This same tail is easily shed and should not be grasped. Once shed, however, a new tail will grow in time. Some individuals may nip but this is rarely a serious matter if the lizard is small. Larger animals should be treated with caution until it is certain they are tame. In time the cage will begin to look scruffy as faeces and debris builds up. As everything recommended for the cage is washable or disposable, a good clean out is easily done. Depending on the size of the animals and the density at which they are kept, eight to ten weeks would be about as long as the cage could be left before being completely cleaned. If a more natural set up is envisaged, it may be best to wait until some experience is gained. In any case, some of the very informative books on reptiles in general and lizards in particular could be investigated.

Food & Feeding

Insects like crickets and locusts form the staple diet in captivity for small specimens. Mealworms can also be fed. Insects should be dusted with Repton, a vitamin and mineral supplement. Alternatively the insects can be 'loaded' by feeding Cricket and Mealworm Diet Plus but do not do both! Other insects that are eaten include Wax worms but these are best given only occasionally as a treat. A few individuals sometimes eat leafy salads and sweet fruit. Live food is only eaten if it is seen to move and will usually be jumped upon and grabbed with the mouth. One lizard may eat up to five or more insects at one meal; it will depend upon their size. Feed the lizards every other day with just enough to be completely eaten in fifteen minutes. Try not to leave an excess of uneaten insects in the cage. Once tame the lizards will accept moving morsels offered in tweezers or tongs. Here is a chance to use one of the excellent formulated diets like frozen sausages for reptiles or even thawed, frozen rodent pups. A large water dish kept full of fresh water should always be available. The lizards will drink and will wish to bathe in fresh water from time to time. The water will need frequent changing as the animals will use their bath as a loo!

Reproduction

Most male lizards are proportionately larger than the females and they have broader heads. Other differences in shape, form and colour exist but usually depend upon the precise species in detail. A period of courtship proceeds mating and during this time much activity can be expected. Eggs are laid after mating and they may take several weeks to hatch. To grow to adult in captivity may take as short a time as twelve months but in the wild, two to five years may elapse. A cooler winter period may be needed to condition the lizards for breeding in the following season.

Health & Disease

Lizards can live for several years in nature but as some will already be adult when purchased, no real estimate of life expectancy as pets can be made. They do not suffer from many diseases and veterinary attention is rarely needed. An environment and diet as described in this leaflet will preclude most problems. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet lizards do not pose a real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed.