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Terrestrial Newts & Salamanders

Biology

Salamanders and Newts are amphibians and there are many species that are commonly kept as pets. These may include:

·        European Fire Salamander (Salamandra salamandra)

·        European Newts (Triturus spp.)

·        N. American Mole Salamanders (Ambystoma spp.)

·        Oriental Newts (Cynops spp.)

·        Crocodile Salamanders (Tylototriton spp.)

Housing

The permanent cage needs to be fairly large, 35cm x 15cm x 25cm being a suitable size for two animals with a length of 10cm each. Juveniles can be grown on in proportionately smaller cages but in all cases the requirements of the individual housed should be taken into account. Many types of cage can be used to house salamanders. For juveniles, the moulded clear plastic tanks with fitted lids are very useful. For bigger animals, a purpose made vivarium is probably most appropriate. The types with sliding glass doors to the front are very popular. Another often-used cage is a converted aquarium. A special adapting lid is used to contain the amphibians and house any equipment that may be used. Whatever the type of cage used, it must be kept scrupulously clean. The cage should be set up in a manner similar to the diagram overleaf. A heater may be installed to provide a background temperature of between 15ºC and 25ºC. This is best done with a HabiStat heat mat or strip taped to the inside of the back wall of a wooden cage but on either side if it is made of glass or plastic. Make sure the mat acts like a radiator, so very little of it should be below the line of the substrate. The coolest part of the cage should be nearer 20ºC. All heat sources should be comparatively low powered to protect the animals from being burnt. Many newts and salamanders will not require heating as they are perfectly happy at room temperatures. Indeed, it may be necessary to cool the cage or at least make sure they do not rise above a tolerable level. Under these circumstances a HabiStat MiniFan and Cool Control thermostat may be needed. Look up the precise requirements of the species being kept so that their preferences may be accommodated. Much of the success achieved in keeping salamanders will come from the skilful manipulation of ventilation. Some of these animals require very high humidity, while others like it a little dryer but none can stand stagnant air conditions. Fresh air moving into the cage is essential. Use the upward draughts caused by heated air rising to flush out the cage and drag fresh air in. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide most of the humidity required. Some species will require the substrate to be damp but not wringing wet. Look in the literature for details of the particular species being kept.

Husbandry

Most species are best kept in groups of the same species. Some may even be kept in community set ups containing different species. Be careful when mixing salamanders as some like the Tiger Salamander, Ambystoms tigrinum, are cannibalistic and will tackle another salamander almost as big as itself. Most salamanders will swallow another individual if it moves within striking distance and is of a size that is similar to prey animals. These animals do not really like being handled, so if it is necessary to move them, scoop them into a container like a bowl and move them in this. Be prepared, however, for the animal to attempt an escape by jumping. Use a hand as a lid to restrain the salamander in case of mishap. In time the cage will begin to look scruffy and as soon as any faeces or debris appears it should be removed. As everything recommended for the cage is washable or disposable, a good clean out is easily done. It can be made to look quite natural, especially if live moss, ferns and other shade loving plants are used. In any case, some of the very informative books on amphibians in general and salamanders in particular could be investigated.

Food & Feeding

Insects like crickets and locusts form the staple diet in captivity for most specimens. Mealworms can also be fed. Crickets should be fed Cricket Diet Plus while Mealworms and Locusts should be offered Mealworm Diet Plus respectively to 'load' the insect with vitamins and minerals. Alternatively, the insects can be dusted with a supplement like Repton. Wax worms can be given as an occasional treat or used to tempt fussy feeders. Most species will take earthworms slugs but there are a few that are not able to cope with wet or sticky prey. For rearing juveniles, fruit flies or hatchling crickets can be used until the salamanders have grown enough to tackle bigger prey. Food is sensed by movement and then grabbed with the mouth or caught on a sticky tongue. If it puts up too much of a struggle or is particularly bulky, it is pushed against the substrate. Feed the salamanders about twice every week with enough food that equals no more than one quarter of the animal's total mass. Do not to leave an excess of uneaten insects in the cage as these will only annoy the salamanders. A water dish kept full of fresh water should always be available. Salamanders do not drink but soak up water through the skin. So do not put vitamin supplements into the water dish as this may cause more problems that it prevents. There is no route into the gut via the water dish. Some of them like to immerse themselves occasionally, so a bath is recommended. The problem is that the animals may use the bath as a loo. This will need cleaning out as soon as possible, as salamanders are particularly sensitive to the combination of wetness and dirt.

Reproduction

To sex a salamander an adult specimen is usually required. The males tend to have bulbous lips either side of the vent. Females, on the other hand show a simple slit like opening. The males of newts often develop tail and body crests as well as bright colours and markings during the breeding season. These species have to return to water to breed so look up the species being kept for precise details.

Mating and spawning may not be at all easy to induce in captivity. If breeding is contemplated, a good deal of research will be necessary and some of the many excellent books should be consulted.

Health & Disease

Salamanders live for many years in nature and may be expected to live even longer in captivity. They do not suffer from many diseases and veterinary attention is rarely needed. A scrupulously clean environment and diet as described in this leaflet will preclude most problems. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease or injury is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet salamanders do not pose a real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed.