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Terrapins

Biology

The freshwater terrapins discussed in this leaflet belong to the family Emydidae. They are within a group of shelled reptiles the collectively called Chelonians. It includes the land tortoises, the semi aquatic box turtles and the marine turtles. Terrapins live in most habitats with access to fresh water that have a warm temperate to tropical climate. They are found on all continents except Antarctica. Quite a few are regularly available as pets each year, although supply is seasonal. Most are available as hatchling and other conveniently sized, small specimens. They will, however, grow quite quickly, often to substantial animals that will require appropriate accommodation and facilities. The species most often encountered are the N. American Cooters and Sliders, Trachemys and Pseudemys spp., Painted Terrapins, Chrysemys picta. From Eurasian comes the Pond Tortoise, Emys orbicularis and other terrapins that are Mauremys spp.

A commitment to the extra responsibilities a growing terrapin will involve must be appreciated when starting to keep these fascinating reptiles.

Housing

The most suitable containers for these animals are aquaria. Set up with half land and half water, these tanks make admirable quarters. As the animals housed may become quite large, it is best that the aquaria are as large as possible. Even then, some will out grow all but the biggest tanks and will require some other purpose built accommodation. During the summer, some garden ponds, especially those that get a good deal of sun are much appreciated. Care must be taken to ensure the temporarily paroled animal cannot escape into the wild. The water in the aquarium may be filtered in some way and the movement necessary to do this, used to aerate it at the same time. To set up the tank, add the substrate to form a base and into this anchor the plants. Any other items of decor can then be positioned. Finally, fill the aquarium with water. Ordinary tap water is suitable but may be improved by adding a propriety conditioner. The filter should be installed and run for about a day to settle the environment. (If an under gravel filter is used, it must of course, be installed before the substrate.) The substrate has two functions. One is purely decorative and the other, functional. Where decor is concerned, much is dictated by personal taste but a few points are worth considering. Choose the colours to blend into a pleasing background that contrasts well with the animals. Either a very dark or very light colour will probably make the best contrast. A terraced effect built behind retaining walls gives the impression of depth and allows both the animals and plants access to different levels. The functional role of the substrate will centre on its ability to trap and hold particulate material and how much microbial life it can support. Chemically, it is better if it is inert. The best substances to choose are the fairly coarse, lime free sands and gravels used for aquariums. Alternatively, the artificial medium, Hortag is also recommended. Plants again, serve in both decorative and functional roles. They are better planted towards the rear of the tank and choose a species like Elodea, Scindapus and Tradascantia that are tough and will provide good oxygenation. Some terrapins are active climbers so a secure, escape-proof lid is essential. If some of the lid is made from a non-corroding metal mesh, this will allow for ventilation. It may also be possible to direct the light into the cage through this mesh. If the light levels are too low, however, the lighting should be installed to the underside of the cage lid. This may require the expertise of an electrician, as mains equipment and water certainly do not mix! It is essential all electrical equipment is installed correctly and adequate protection made against electrocution.

Husbandry

Terrapins cannot really be handled. If it is necessary to move them from one aquarium to another, a suitably sized net should be used. Return the terrapin to water as quickly as possible and avoid escape by capping the net with a free hand. Larger animals can be quickly grasped with both hands and gently lifted from one place to another. Try not to touch the animal for any longer than is necessary. As far as cleaning out is concerned, the nature of the recommended set up only allows for minor interference. Every week between half and two thirds of the water can be removed and replaced with fresh tap water. Allow the new water to stand in a separate contained for a day to let some of the chlorine escape and for the temperature to equilibrate. The only other major task is to trim the plants as they grow and fill the tank. If they are not thriving, this is a good indication that something is wrong and needs to be corrected. The most common reason for plants to fail is insufficient light. Most terrapins appreciate quite a warm environment, so additional heating is required. The easiest way to heat the enclosure is to immerse an aquarium type heater-thermostat into the aquatic portion. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for precise fitting details. Set the thermostat at 27°C and check the water temperature is controlled at the set temperature with an accurate thermometer. It may be a good idea to direct any circulating water over the heater-thermostat to ensure adequate mixing. To augment the background heat a Basking Spotlamp could be used to provide a local hot spot. Make sure the beam of light and heat is directed onto a solid basking area where the terrapin can climb to heat up and drop back into the water to cool off.

With this basking behaviour the animal can maintain its preferred body temperature. To do this, however, the water must be cooler and the basking spot warmer than the value the animal prefers. Some experimentation may be called for.

Food & Feeding

Terrapins usually recognise food by smell and movement. Like many animals they will snap at moving objects in the hope that they might be a meal. If the morsel tastes OK and is of a size that can be swallowed, it is eaten. The majority of terrapins eat both animal and vegetable foods. Whilst still juvenile, animal foods certainly predominate but the best diet for captive terrapins are the pelleted foods especially prepared for them. Pelleted fish foods are similar and can also be offered. Older references recommend feeding whole animals and pieces of meat or fish. Because of the mess these diets make, the beginner best avoids them. Once tame, terrapins will feed if moved to and offered food in another container apart from their main enclosure. This reduces the amount of work involved in their maintenance. A plastic washing up bowl, reserved exclusively for the purpose, is ideal. Any bits of uneaten food can then be discarded and will not be left to decompose and foul the main enclosure. Feed the terrapins in water at the same temperature as the water from which they have been taken.

Reproduction

It may be possible to breed terrapins in captivity. Adult pairs will, of course, be required. To tell the sex of a terrapin it is usually necessary to wait until the individual is mature. The details of sexing and breeding will be found in the many excellent publications available on keeping terrapins. A 'Herpetological club or society could be contacted as another way to learn more and meet other people interested in terrapins. The Internet is also a good source of information.

Health & Disease

Pet terrapins do not suffer from many problems. Occasional fungal infections of the shell may show and can usually be dealt with preparations suitable for fish. The treatments and advice are available from aquarists and pet stores. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Despite uninformed media speculation, pet terrapins do not pose any substantial threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed. This would include washing hands after touching anything associated with the animals.