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Rough Green Snakes

Biology

Rough Green Snakes come from the south-eastern area of the USA. They are not large snakes, averaging 70cm as adults. Bright green above and yellow beneath, this attractive snake has a bright red tongue but is completely harmless.

Housing

These snakes are best housed in tall cages as they are naturally arboreal, that is they live in trees and bushes, often over hanging pools and streams. Rough Green Snakes are best housed in as large a cage as possible. The types with sliding glass doors to the front being especially resistant to escape. Another often used cage, especially for juveniles is a converted aquarium. A special adapting lid is used to contain the reptiles and house any equipment that may be used. As a guide, a minimum size, 90 cm x 45 cm x 60 cm would house a 45 cm snake. The cage should be set up in a manner similar to the diagram over leaf. It will be necessary to provide a local hot spot near 35ºC, while the coolest part of the cage should be nearer 25ºC. The hot spot can easily be arranged by installing a Basking Spot Lamp. To ensure the cage does not overheat, the lamp is best controlled with a HabiStat Dimming Thermostat. White and UV light, from a lamp like a Reptile D3 tube, will be needed and should be present for a similar period; about sixteen hours per day in summer dropping to eight in winter. Ventilation is very important. These snakes require highish humidity but cannot stand stagnant air conditions. Fresh air moving into the cage is essential. Use the upward draughts caused by warm air rising to flush out the cage and drag fresh air in. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide the humidity that is required.

Husbandry

Rough Green Snakes are best kept in groups. Of course the more snakes kept in each cage, the larger the cage should be. They show very little aggression towards each other and often breed when kept together. To handle this type of snake the whole animal should be gently held in one hand with the other hand controlling it. These animals do not really like being handled, so should only be touched if absolutely necessary. They are, however, completely non aggressive; relying on flight to escape any danger. In time the cage will begin to look scruffy as faeces and debris builds up. As everything recommended for the cage is washable or disposable, a good clean out is easily done. Depending on the size of the animals and the density at which they are kept, six to eight weeks would be about as long as the cage could be left before being completely cleaned. The cage set up advised in this leaflet is practicable and can be made to look pleasing to the eye. If a more natural set up is envisaged, it may be best to wait until some experience is gained. In any case, some of the very informative books on reptiles in general and snakes in particular could be investigated.

Food & Feeding

Rough Green Snakes are insectivorous and will eat crickets and locusts. They will also eat, but less easily obtained, flies and spiders. Some people maintain the snakes prefer caterpillar like grubs, so wax worms and silk moth larvae could be tried. Feed the snakes every other day with just enough to be completely eaten in about half an hour. Try not to leave uneaten insects in the cage as these just annoy the snakes. A large water dish kept full of fresh water should always be available. The snakes will drink and will wish to bathe in fresh water from time to time so the water dish may need regular changing.

Reproduction

Most male snakes are proportionately smaller than the females and they have an obvious swelling to the tail just past the vent. The tails are also proportionately longer and less tapering in the males. A period of courtship proceeds mating and during this time much activity can be expected. Eggs are laid after mating and they may take several weeks to hatch. To grow to adult in captivity may take as short a time as twelve months but in the wild, two to five years may elapse. A cooler winter period may be needed to condition the snakes for breeding in the following season. Some reading and research will provide the details.

Health & Disease

These snakes can live for several years in nature but seem to live even longer in captivity. As an average, between four and twelve years can be expected. They do not suffer from many diseases and veterinary attention is rarely needed. The three most common ailments include infestations of mites, skin blisters and a wheezy respiratory condition. The latter two are caused by damp airless conditions. An environment and diet as described in this leaflet will preclude most of these problems. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet snakes do not pose a real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed. This would include washing hands after touching the snakes and any of their associated items.