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Internationional Sugar Glider Association

Long Tailed Skinks

Biology

Long tailed skinks are small lizards in the family Lacertidae and are not skinks at all. They come from Asia where they live in long grass. Normally these little lizards are active during the day at any time the temperature is within their preferred range. They are very slender lizards with a tail of more than three quarters the total length, which may be as long as 300mm. In common with other lizards they can shed their tails if caught by them but they will re-grow again in time.

Housing

Long tailed skinks are best housed in tallish cages as they naturally climb, that is they live in grass and low shrubs. The cage should be set up in a manner similar to the diagram overleaf. If done correctly there will be a hot spot near 32ºC, while the coolest part of the cage could be nearer 25ºC. The hot spot should only operate during the day. White and UV light should be present for a similar period; about sixteen hours in summer dropping to ten in winter. Much of the success achieved in keeping lizards will come from the skilful manipulation of ventilation. The lizards require highish humidity but cannot stand damp stagnant or wet conditions. Fresh air moving into the cage is essential. Use the upward draughts caused by heated air rising to flush out the cage and drag fresh air in. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide the humidity required.

Husbandry

Long tailed skinks should be kept as pairs or if space allows, a few females with one male. Males may fight if within about three feet of one another. In Pet Shops they usually do not fight as they are temporarily housed in densities where aggression is suppressed. To handle these animals, the whole lizard should be gently grasped and held in the hand or between the fingers. Do not grab the easily shed tail. In time the cage will begin to look scruffy as faeces and urates are deposited. As everything recommended for the cage is washable or disposable, a good clean out is easily done. The cage set up advised in this leaflet is practicable and can be made to look pleasing to the eye. If a more natural set up is envisaged, it may be best to wait until some experience is gained. In any case, some of the very informative books on lizards could be investigated.

Food & Feeding

Small insects like small crickets and locusts form the staple diet in captivity. 'White' freshly moulted mealworms can also be picked out and fed. The yellow, ordinary mealworms are too indigestible. To balance the nutrients, dust the insect food with Repton. Aim to give the insects a fine 'ghost' like covering and feed immediately before the insects can clean the supplement off. Alternatively, both crickets and mealworms can be fed Cricket Diet Plus and Mealworm Diet Plus respectively to 'load' the insect with vitamins and minerals. To avoid over dosing, either dust or gut load but do not do both! Other insects that are eaten include Fruit Fly and Wax worms but these are best given only occasionally as a treat. Feed the lizards every other day with just enough to be completely eaten in fifteen minutes. Try not to leave an excess of uneaten insects in the cage. A water dish kept full of fresh water should always be available. Most small lizards, however, will only drink from droplets of water on leaves etc. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide these and give the required humidity.

Reproduction

To sex long tailed skinks look at the tail of the animal. In males there is a hemipenal bulge posterior to the vent. The males are also generally larger, and more brightly coloured. Eggs are laid after mating, as many as ten at a time, several times during the summer. They hatch in five to six weeks if incubated at 30ºC.

Health & Disease

Long tailed skinks live for about two to three years in nature but as many will already be adult when purchased, no real estimate of life expectancy as pets can be made. They do not suffer from many diseases and veterinary attention is rarely needed. An environment and diet as described in this leaflet will preclude most problems. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet lizards do not pose a real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed.