AmeyZoo Exotic Pets

The permanent cage needs to be fairly large, a 40cm x 60cm x 40cm being a suitable size for two animals with a body length of 10cm each. Juveniles can be grown on in proportionately smaller cages but in all cases the requirements of the individual housed should be taken into account. Many types of cage can be used to house frogs. For juveniles, the moulded clear plastic tanks with fitted lids are very useful. For bigger animals a purpose made vivarium is probably most appropriate. The types with sliding glass doors to the front are very popular. Another often used cage is a converted aquarium. A special adapting lid is used to contain the amphibians and house any equipment that may be used. Whatever the type of cage used, it must be kept scrupulously clean. The cage should be set up in a manner similar to the diagram overleaf. A heater should be installed to provide a background temperature of between 25ºC and 30ºC. This is best done with a HabiStat heat mat or strip taped to the inside of the back wall of a wooden cage but on either side if it is made of glass or plastic. Make sure the mat acts like a radiator, so very little of it should be below the line of the substrate. A local hot spot of 35ºC may be added as an optional extra. In which case, a HabiStat controlled Basking Spot Lamp would provide the necessary heat. The hot spot should warm an area in front of the heat mat. The coolest part of the cage should be nearer 25ºC. All heat sources should be comparatively low powered to protect the animals from being burnt. Guard any hot surface if this is a possibility. The hot spot, if present, should only operate during the day for about fourteen hours in summer dropping to twelve in winter. Tree frogs, especially these larger species, will usually like to sit in warm bright light. Full spectrum lamps like Reptile D3 are almost essential to keep them in peak condition. Indeed, juveniles may be very difficult to rear without such exposure. Set up a lamp as shown on the diagram with a perch no more than about ten inches from the surface of the light source. Much of the success achieved in keeping frogs will come from the skilful manipulation of ventilation. Some of these animals require very high humidity, while others like it a little dryer but none can stand stagnant air conditions. Fresh air moving into the cage is essential. Use the upward draughts caused by heated air rising to flush out the cage and drag fresh air in. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide most of the humidity required. Some species will require the substrate to be damp but not wringing wet. Look in the literature for details of the particular species being kept.

Husbandry

Most species are best kept in groups of the same species. Some may even be kept in community set ups containing different species. Be careful when mixing frogs as some of these bigger species are cannibalistic and will tackle another frog if it is much smaller. Most frogs will swallow anything live that moves within striking distance and is of a size that is similar to prey animals. These animals do not really like being handled, so if it is necessary to move them, scoop them into a container like a bowl and move them in this. Be prepared, however, for the animal to attempt an escape by jumping. Use a hand as a lid to restrain the frog in case of mishap. In time the cage will begin to look scruffy and as soon as any faeces or debris appears it should be removed. As everything recommended for the cage is washable or disposable, a good clean out is easily done. The cage set up advised in this leaflet is practicable and can be made to look pleasing to the eye. It can be made to look quite natural even without using live plants, which are best left until some experience is gained. In any case, some of the very informative books on amphibians in general and frogs in particular could be investigated.

Food & Feeding

Insects like crickets and locusts form the staple diet in captivity for most specimens. Mealworms can also be fed. Crickets should be fed Cricket Diet Plus while Mealworms and Locusts should be offered Mealworm Diet Plus respectively to 'load' the insect with vitamins and minerals. Alternatively, the insects can be dusted with a supplement like Repton. Wax worms can be given as an occasional treat or used to tempt fussy feeders. Some species will take earthworms but not all are able to cope with wet or sticky prey. For rearing juveniles, fruit flies or hatchling crickets can be used until the frogs have grown enough to tackle bigger prey. Food is sensed by movement and then grabbed with the mouth or caught on a sticky tongue. If it puts up too much of a struggle or is particularly bulky, it is pushed in with the fore limbs. Frogs can take enormous meals compared to their size. Meals that are over half the size of the frog have been eaten. Despite this, it is not recommended that such gargantuan feasts be offered. Indeed, many juvenile specimens may have died prematurely due to their owners misguided attempts to indulge them. Prey sized at about the same width of the mouth is probably best. Feed the frogs about twice every week with enough food that equals no more than one quarter of the animal's total mass. Do not to leave an excess of uneaten insects in the cage as these will only annoy the frogs. A water dish kept full of fresh water should always be available. Frogs do not drink but soak up water through the skin. So do not put vitamin supplements into the water dish as this may cause more problems that it prevents. There is no route into the gut via the water dish. Almost all of them like to immerse themselves occasionally, so a bath is essential. The problem is that the animals may use the bath as a loo. This will need cleaning out as soon as possible, as frogs are particularly sensitive to the combination of wetness and dirt.

Reproduction

To sex a frog an adult specimen is usually required. The males often have vocal sacs and darker coloured throats. Many also have rough dark pads on the fingers and thumb. These are used to grip the female and ensure the male is present when the spawn is laid. Mating and spawning may not be at all easy to induce in captivity. If breeding is contemplated, a good deal of research will be necessary and some of the many excellent books should be consulted.

Health & Disease

Frogs live for many years in nature and may be expected to live even longer in captivity. They do not suffer from many diseases and veterinary attention is rarely needed. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease or injury is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet frogs do not pose a real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed.