AmeyZoo Exotic Pets

Iguanas are a medium to large lizards that come from Central and South America. They are usually green in colour with a variety of other colours forming the bodily markings and pattern. The roughly 15 cm babies grow into adults that may be between 100 cm’s and 200 cm’s. In most cases the tail is over half the total length. Many of the animals available as pets are specifically bred in farms in the countries in which they naturally occur.

Housing

These lizards are best housed in a tall cages as they are naturally arboreal, that is they live in trees and bushes, often over hanging pools and streams. The longest measurement of their cage could be its height. Iguanas are best housed in as large a cage as possible. Because of their rapid rate of growth and the heating and lighting equipment they need, purpose made vivaria are probably the most appropriate. The types with sliding glass doors to the front being especially resistant to escape. Another often used cage, especially for juveniles is a converted aquarium. A special adapting lid is used to contain the reptiles and house any equipment that may be used. Many other types of cage can be used to house these lizards. As a guide, a minimum size, 90 cm x 45 cm x 60 cm would house a 45 cm lizard. The cage should be set up in a manner similar to the diagram over leaf. It will be necessary to provide a local hot spot near 40ºC, while the coolest part of the cage should be nearer 28ºC. The hot spot can easily be arranged by installing a Basking Spot Lamp. To ensure the cage does not overheat, the lamp is best controlled with a HabiStat Dimming Thermostat. White and UV light, from a lamp like a Reptile D3 tube, will be needed and should be present for a similar period; about sixteen hours per day in summer dropping to eight in winter. Ventilation is very important. These lizards require highish humidity but cannot stand stagnant air conditions. Fresh air moving into the cage is essential. Use the upward draughts caused by warm air rising to flush out the cage and drag fresh air in. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide the humidity that is required.

Husbandry

Most may be kept singly or in groups. Of course the more lizards kept in each cage, the larger the cage should be. Each juvenile lizard will require about 30 cm x 30 cm x 60 cm of space but much more when they are adult. Males will tend to fight if more than one adult is present in the cage. Overall, the cage should be as large possible with plenty of hiding spaces and visual screens. To handle this type of lizard the whole animal should be gently grasped around the shoulder region and the other hand used to support the animal from below. These animals do not really like being handled, so should only be touched if absolutely necessary. Sharp claws may scratch and the tail is sometimes used to 'whip' a potential threat. This same tail is easily shed and should not be grasped. Once shed, however, a new tail will grow in time. Some individuals may nip but this is rarely a serious matter if the lizard is small. Larger animals should be treated with caution until it is certain they are tame. In time the cage will begin to look scruffy as faeces and debris builds up. As everything recommended for the cage is washable or disposable, a good clean out is easily done. Depending on the size of the animals and the density at which they are kept, six to eight weeks would be about as long as the cage could be left before being completely cleaned. If a more natural set up is envisaged, it may be best to wait until some experience is gained. In any case, some of the very informative books on reptiles in general and lizards in particular could be investigated.

Food & Feeding

Iguanas are properly described, as being omnivorous but the majority of the diet should be vegetarian. Insects and other animal items are eaten but in the wild these form only a minor part of the diet. Captive animals should reflect this situation and food like crickets and mealworms should only constitute about 5% of the diet. The other 95% should be made up of leafy vegetables with some salad and fruit. Things like cabbage, kale, grated carrot and apple are typical things to offer. In fact anything may tempt the lizard and as long as it is edible, as much variety as possible is appreciated. To balance the vitamin and mineral content, sprinkle the food with Reptavite as this is specially formulated for vegetable diets. Insects, on the other hand, should be dusted with Repton, a different vitamin and mineral supplement. Alternatively the insects can be 'loaded' by feeding Cricket and Mealworm Diet Plus but do not do both! Other insects that are eaten include Wax worms but these are best given only occasionally as a treat. Feed the lizards every day with just enough to be completely eaten by the time of the next feed. It is also possible to use one of the popular formulated diets like frozen and dry iguana diets. Once tame the lizards will accept moving morsels offered in tweezers or tongs. Here is a chance to use thawed, frozen rodent pups as an occasional treat. A large water dish kept full of fresh water should always be available. The lizards will drink and will wish to bathe in fresh water from time to time. The water will need frequent changing, as the animals will use their bath as a loo!

Reproduction

Most male lizards are proportionately larger than the females and they have broader heads. They also have more pronounced dewlaps and spiny crests. On the underside of each hind leg is a row of wax secreting pores that are very much more obvious in males. A period of courtship proceeds mating and during this time much activity can be expected. Eggs are laid after mating and they may take several weeks to hatch. To grow to adult in captivity may take as short a time as twelve months but in the wild, two to five years may elapse. A cooler winter period may be needed to condition the lizards for breeding in the following season. Some reading and research will provide the details.